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The Observer
by Jay Rayner
?There's no batch cooking here, nor any long lists of generic westernised curries. The menu reads well, ingredients are fresh, and the sauces have depth and complexity. You know you are on to a good thing when the chutney which comes with the poppadoms is not some over-sweetened gloop which may once have been in the same room as a mango, but a properly spiced and fruity mixture with layers of flavour?
?As we know, authentic is not always the same as good. But our main courses were impressive. I would go back to Dilli just for the generous rack of lamb - chaamp taazdaar - first braised in a liquor rich in clove and cardamom, then marinated in spiced yogurt and finished in the tandoor, to produce sweet, smoky, tender chops, which insisted upon being eaten by hand rather than fork, to pull every last fibre from the bone.
?A daal makhani of long-cooked black lentils in a sauce of tomatoes, garlic and cream added great lubrication, and a deep-green coconut-rich seafood curry was soft and gentle. We liked the fluffy rice and the fresh breads with their crispy burnt bits?
?Though £35 a head may seem a lot, it's only because we have for too long banished the cooking of the subcontinent into some spurious bargain basement. This is what you need to know: I left Dilli very happy indeed, and since then I have neither died nor developed any form of life-threatening illness. Surely these facts can not be unrelated??
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Dilli Restaurant
60 Stamford New Road,
Altrincham, Cheshire WA14 1EE
tel: 0161 927 9219
fax: 0161 929 1213
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